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Harnagel
05-12-04, 12:57 PM
Aaargh,

I just got my Athlon64 system parts, plugged everything in and something got fried, I'm not sure what, but the smell was pretty bad. I turned on the power supply and the CPU and case fan started running for maybe 1-2 seconds then stopped. I figured it was a power hicup or something so I hit the power swith on the case. A few seconds later a nasty burning smell filled the room, I cut the power, but I'm afraid it was too late. I took everything out and reseated it all and tried turning it on again. Now the CPU and case fans turn on but the HD and CROM don't start spinning, there's no post beeps and no output to the monitor.

The problem is I don't know what got fried. I figure it's either the CPU, MB, or PSU. I took the CPU out and inspected it, but there doesn't seem to be any burn marks on it or other signs of distress. The MB is running power at least for the fans, would it do that if it had been fried? Any ideas?

Antec Sonata w/ truePower 380
Athlon 64 3000+
NF3 MB
512 MB PC3200
GFFX5200

After all these years of building computers, this is the first one I've killed. :argh:

{Sniping}Waste
05-12-04, 01:31 PM
Looks like its a PSU problem. If you can, try a nother PSU first and see if its the problem.

MUYA
05-12-04, 01:39 PM
nasty.. :(..best of luck as I hope everything turns out allright in the end man...

Son Goku
05-12-04, 02:52 PM
Antec Sonata w/ truePower 380
Athlon 64 3000+
NF3 MB
512 MB PC3200
GFFX5200

My understanding is that a 380 watt PSU is a bit on the skimpy side for an Athlon 64. I wouldn't try to upgrade to an A64 myself without upgrading my PSU, and it's a 400 watt... It served me well since my Athlon 700, but for my next upgrade...

Unfortuanately, this go around, AMD didn't have the sense to give required and recommended PSU requirements, along with indications on what an A64 system uses... What's on their site is a "no duh"...but not technical enough

http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/DevelopWithAMD/0,,30_2252_869_9460%5e9514,00.html

My understanding is that your PSU, if I'm reading that right as a 380 watt...is rather small for an A64 though.

|JuiceZ|
05-12-04, 03:00 PM
My understanding is that a 380 watt PSU is a bit on the skimpy side for an Athlon 64. I wouldn't try to upgrade to an A64 myself without upgrading my PSU, and it's a 400 watt... It served me well since my Athlon 700, but for my next upgrade...

Unfortuanately, this go around, AMD didn't have the sense to give required and recommended PSU requirements, along with indications on what an A64 system uses... What's on their site is a "no duh"...but not technical enough

http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/DevelopWithAMD/0,,30_2252_869_9460%5e9514,00.html

My understanding is that your PSU, if I'm reading that right as a 380 watt...is rather small for an A64 though.

In the case of psu's quality will always out weigh quanity as its been proved many times that most "high rated" generic psu's have very unstable rails.

Goku all may not be losted yet, especially since you say the cpu/mb etc show no visible burn marks. I would go out and grab yourself a "quality" psu (Antec, Enermax, PCPC, etc...) rated at no less than 350watt and test your components. I've exprienced the same type of issue on past rigs and its always been the psu.

Son Goku
05-12-04, 10:41 PM
I was replying to the poster in this thread. I didn't have the problem...but I would not recommend a 350 watt or 380 PSU...

The size of the PSU does matter if the wattage being drawn on the respective voltage lines exceeds what the PSU can deliver. I'm saying that my understanding is that Athlon 64s draw more power and so such a system might pull more out of such a low wattage PSU, then the thing can supply at it's maximum. Of course all components would contribute to this total draw. Again, more technical specs (such as the draw on each voltage line) for the hardware would help...then peeps could do their own math adding their drives and what not. Regardless of quality, I for one wouldn't really trust running over about 80% of max rating for the given lines, on any PSU... I tend to like leaving a little margin there :D

THX, but I would not even try to make a similar upgrade myself, without replacing this one with a high quality, and higher wattage PSU then mine :D And no, I don't tend to go for generic stuff, hehe With all the drives I have in here (and the 2 10k rpm SCSI drives...as I remember have a bit of draw themselves), I'd probably go with a 550 watt non-generic good quality PSU, even if I had to pay $200 or so for the thing :D

Edit: The person with this problem reported his PSU was
Antec Sonata w/ truePower 380

Harnagel
05-13-04, 12:42 AM
Well, I don't have time to look into it for the moment. I'll see if I can get another PSU to test with over the weekend. Thanks for your suggestions and sympathy.

Harnagel
05-13-04, 12:46 AM
As far as drives all I have is a notebook HD(very low power) and a CDRW/DVD combo drive in addition to what I listed above. I really have a hard time believing an Antec TruePower380 would have a hard time with that, but I guess I'll have to check it out.

Son Goku
05-13-04, 02:06 AM
It might...the impression I've got is that these systems... Perhaps someone who has had some experience with these wouldn't mind chimming in. Also, does your mobo manual give any recommendations wrt this? My first Athlon mobo manual had, stating specifically what it recommended on the 3.3 volt line, the standby line, and total? This would be a place to check, if the mobo manufacturer has given any recomends...

Sazar
05-13-04, 02:18 AM
you NEED min 18A on the 12v rail to run an a64 properly and w/o issue...

Casper
05-13-04, 06:51 AM
In the case of psu's quality will always out weigh quanity as its been proved many times that most "high rated" generic psu's have very unstable rails.

Goku all may not be losted yet, especially since you say the cpu/mb etc show no visible burn marks. I would go out and grab yourself a "quality" psu (Antec, Enermax, PCPC, etc...) rated at no less than 350watt and test your components. I've exprienced the same type of issue on past rigs and its always been the psu.

JuiceZ he has an Antec Truepower 380 W which surely should be enough.

Though I myself don´t have all to good experiences with Antecs. Had a Highpower 412 that died within a year. And now if the PC Power $ cooling ATX PSU tester shows correctly my Antec Truepower 550 W is malfunctioning too which I have suspected for some time though it boots and run generally fine.

So it looks like I did the right choice ordering a PC Power and Cooling 510 deluxe with 5 years warranty :). 530 W at 40 degree Celsius continuous ain´t bad and a max of 650 W :smoking2:

|JuiceZ|
05-13-04, 08:34 AM
JuiceZ he has an Antec Truepower 380 W which surely should be enough.

Dang, guess thats what I get for skimming over post, pretty much makes mine irrelevant. Would still test yer rig w/ another one though to see if it produces the same results.

btw, Casper, how many $$ did that PC PC psu set you back? *ouch* :p

saturnotaku
05-13-04, 08:55 AM
btw, Casper, how many $$ did that PC PC psu set you back? *ouch* :p

See for yerself ;)

http://www.pcpowercooling.com/prices/

|JuiceZ|
05-13-04, 09:05 AM
See for yerself ;)

http://www.pcpowercooling.com/prices/

hrm, not as bad as I thought but still expensive. Their quality is worth every penny though.

DaveW
05-13-04, 01:05 PM
The problem is I don't know what got fried. I figure it's either the CPU, MB, or PSU. I took the CPU out and inspected it, but there doesn't seem to be any burn marks on it or other signs of distress. The MB is running power at least for the fans, would it do that if it had been fried? Any ideas?


Just follow your nose. Sniff the CPU. If you fried it, it will have a very distinctive smell. The smell lingers for weeks. If the CPU has no smell, then start smelling the different areas on the mobo.

Harnagel
05-13-04, 01:27 PM
Thanks Dave,

I did that and I found what burned. It was the Motherboard. There's a trace going from near the CPU to the AGP slot that has been fried. I can see the PCB has been burned off to reveal the copper and the copper has been cracked in several places. It's not as easy to spot as I thought it would be, but definelty there, and it still smells a bit. Again, thanks for all your help everybody.

Sazar
05-13-04, 05:34 PM
harnagel... g.luck with the rma and what not... just make sure when you build your new system you have all the power requirements scoped out and that all the little things are in place and nothing appears to be capable of shorting things out... I would recommend the cpu also be tested just in case it might have been the culprit to an extent..

anyways... have fun and keep us posted on your work done..