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Foo=BK=
10-30-02, 05:47 PM
I have a Hercules GeForce 32meg card that had a surface mount "can style" capacitor fall off. And I'm not kidding it really just fell off. It must have been cold soldered on. Ok so now on to the fun part, I want to solder on a regular capacitor to repair the board. Problem is I'm not sure of the value It looks like it has a "330" a "6s" and also a "OL1" on top. Anyone care to clue me in on the value and voltage of this capacitor. Since this cap. fell off while I was holding the board in my hand I think I can salvage the board for my jukebox machine I have under my bar. :D

Thanks
Foo=BK=

P.S. I just checked and the exact capacitor is labeled "C31"

Foo=BK=
10-31-02, 07:57 AM
Bump.......any help would appreciated.
Thanks

Chalnoth
10-31-02, 08:23 AM
If it's not damaged, I would think your best bet would be to just resolder that one.

Foo=BK=
10-31-02, 02:29 PM
It was damaged after I tried to reshape the leads to make it easier to resolder back on the board. So I really need to reinstall a new one. Thanks though. :D

LORD-eX-Bu
10-31-02, 03:38 PM
You can RMA it and get a new one with a better core.

EDIT: Nevermind, just saw what type of card it was.

Chalnoth
10-31-02, 04:00 PM
Ah, here's a site, if it helps:

http://www.pmel.org/HandBook/HBpage26.htm

dunbar
11-05-02, 01:51 PM
get out a magnifying glass..... these caps are usually marked. Write down the code or the markings. Google for information something like this:markingcode "SMT capacitor"and hit return. Manufacturers of SMT capacitors are Nichicon, Marcon and United Chemicon (I think Marcon is now a division of United Chemicon).
From there, look up the catalog on the website, usually you can cross reference the code into a specific part, and cross reference from there.

Foo=BK=
11-05-02, 04:16 PM
I posted up above what the markings are. Here they are again:
it has a "330" a "6s" and also a "OL1" on top. Thats all there is marked on the entire cap. I have looked at some other geforce family boards and they all have this style cap. Many I have seen have had the same markings. The cap is also polarized with a black stripe painted along one edge of the top. There are 3 of these caps on the board I'm looking at right now. And every board I have seen has had them on it. So maybe someone will read this thread and know what value it is. I went and bought several caps of different values that seemed logical. I'm waiting to mount anything till I hear what the real value is.

Thanks again,
Jeff

Kruno
11-06-02, 05:28 AM
A capacitor had fallen off my dad's Voodoo 3 after a few years. I guess wear and tear is the issue. The Voodoo 3 still works perfect though. :)

dunbar
11-06-02, 07:02 AM
Foo=BK=:

Probably, as a (educated) guess, this is a 330 microfarad at 6.3 volts (suporting information here (http://www.niccomp.com/SMTE-CAPmark0802.pdf)).

The quality of SMT Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors (temperature rating, lifetime rating, ESR capabilities, etc) is not easily represented on such small capacitors, so an exact match is not likely to happen. That quality stuff usually matters most on power supplies (my field of expertise), but still the quality level of this capacitor might have been part of a graphics cards design, so the point is not totally irrelevant here.

Anyway, here is one more, possibly major, problem: if the copper pads on the PCB are damaged in any way, as in being completely missing or have debonded, there is no point in continuing because the scope of repairing bad PCB tracks is beyond the abilities of a forum.

If the PCB pads are OK, how do you plan to attach a new capacitor to the PC board? Being SMT, the terminals are underneath the bottom mounting plate, and are not easily soldered with common hand held soldering pencils. And the heat of a pencil iron...... I hope you are skilled at reworking PCBs, otherwise the risks of bad rework may cause a much larger failure (a shorted capacitor could destroy (smoke) the whole motherboard).

Remember, all of the above information is outside of acceptable operating conditions (as was your initial attemts at reattaching the capacitor which fell off): if things go wrong, you need to realize that you are taking responsibility for the actions of your hands.

Foo=BK=
11-08-02, 03:49 PM
Thanks Dunbar, Your links were what I was looking for. My board did have cold solder joints to the cap. in question. It really just fell off in my hand with hardly any force put on it. You can see the imprints of where the pads of the cap were sitting. It came off clean, with no damage to the board itself. I intend on taking a similar rated regular leaded cap. and reattach it to the old cap's. pads. The insulator came off with the surface mount cap. and I will use it on the new one. There are 2 other cap's. on the board the same as the one that fell off that I will compare polarity with before reattaching the leaded cap. Years ago I used to work as a designer of PCB's. Back when we used black tape, and thick sheets of mylar for each layer of the board. I had to take a Mil. Spec. soldering class so I could make bread boards and then take the prototype boards after they came back from the board maker and attach the components. That was years ago. I hope my soldering skills are still up to par. The pads for the cap seem to be clean and it looks like the cap in question was attached to pads that are both on the surface layer. But what do I have to loose. The board isn't worth much to me, it will be a hand me down to a nephew who will think it's great if it works. It will be a whole lot better than his 8meg ATI Rage card.
Thanks again !!

I'll post after the repair. :)

dunbar
11-20-02, 09:10 AM
Well, soldering hasn't changed very much since solder was invented, so your skills may still work!