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Digital_Trans
03-11-07, 06:55 PM
I have some general questions in regards to my pre-install on the Asus Striker Extreme motherboard. Your insight...suggestions and advice are always welcome here.


1.) How do I Raid 0 in the system bios with this motherboard? I'm going to pair 2 150 WD Raptors

2.) Which of the following nForce drivers do I need to be installing from version: 15.00 for Windows Vista Ultimate x64? because sometimes not all the drivers are needed and are optional. Here's the list.
Ethernet Driver (v65.55) WHQL
SMBus Driver (v4.60) WHQL
Installer (v5.40)
IDE SataRAID Driver (v9.31) WHQL
IDE SataIDE Driver (v9.31) WHQL
RAIDTOOL Application (v9.31)
SMU (v1.23) WHQL

3.) When screwing down the motherboard how tight should I screw it in? lmao! :D


4.) Which jumper setting needs adjusted so I can take full advantage of the clear bios or reset bios feature with the simple push button instead of having to clear the bios the hard way with moving the jumper over one and back.

ArrowMk84
03-11-07, 08:27 PM
I have some general questions in regards to my pre-install on the Asus Striker Extreme motherboard. Your insight...suggestions and advice are always welcome here.


1.) How do I Raid 0 in the system bios with this motherboard? I'm going to pair 2 150 WD Raptors

2.) Which of the following nForce drivers do I need to be installing from version: 15.00 for Windows Vista Ultimate x64? because sometimes not all the drivers are needed and are optional. Here's the list.
Ethernet Driver (v65.55) WHQL
SMBus Driver (v4.60) WHQL
Installer (v5.40)
IDE SataRAID Driver (v9.31) WHQL
IDE SataIDE Driver (v9.31) WHQL
RAIDTOOL Application (v9.31)
SMU (v1.23) WHQL

3.) When screwing down the motherboard how tight should I screw it in? lmao! :D


4.) Which jumper setting needs adjusted so I can take full advantage of the clear bios or reset bios feature with the simple push button instead of having to clear the bios the hard way with moving the jumper over one and back.

1) Read the manual. Basically its just a matter of selecting the ports in the BIOS, and looks fairly simple. Although I wouldn't bother with RAID 0. All the reputable benchmarks show no real performance gain (and is some cases losses, due to added seek times), and the few benchmarks I've seen that do show performance gain have been called into question for bad methodology. My two Raptors kick ass in a non-Raid configuration.

2) The installer detects what you need, based on what you've enabled in BIOS.

4) The jumper is a little above the CMOS clear button, IIRC. The manual will show you the exact location.

Digital_Trans
03-11-07, 08:41 PM
Okay, thank you for the fast reply. I heard raid 0 wasn't anything to really worry about. Thanks again! Also, one more question how tight would you suggest I screw down the motherboard into the case? How tight should be tight be? snug? firm? What would you suggest?

ArrowMk84
03-11-07, 09:07 PM
Okay, thank you for the fast reply. I heard raid 0 wasn't anything to really worry about. Thanks again! Also, one more question how tight would you suggest I screw down the motherboard into the case? How tight should be tight be? snug? firm? What would you suggest?

I'd make them snug. Stop once you have to put some effort into turning the screw further.

Digital_Trans
03-12-07, 12:00 AM
Thanks for the information. I have one more final question. I have the new Koolance CPU 330 Waterblock. url: http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=402
How tight should I get this on? Snug just like the motherboard? Please advise.

ArrowMk84
03-12-07, 10:16 AM
Thanks for the information. I have one more final question. I have the new Koolance CPU 330 Waterblock. url: http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=402
How tight should I get this on? Snug just like the motherboard? Please advise.

You're going to want to make sure the block is secure with good contact between it and the CPU, just like any other heatsink. Again, read the manual - it should give you an indication just how tight you need to get it (rant: honestly, for screw-down heatsinks and blocks, the manufacturer should give you a torque wrench/driver screwing the thing down...).

Digital_Trans
03-12-07, 01:21 PM
You're going to want to make sure the block is secure with good contact between it and the CPU, just like any other heatsink. Again, read the manual - it should give you an indication just how tight you need to get it (rant: honestly, for screw-down heatsinks and blocks, the manufacturer should give you a torque wrench/driver screwing the thing down...).


Koolance never provided any information on how tight the heatsink should be over the cpu. Infact, they didn't even provide me a manual with the new purchase of the Koolance CPU-330 Water block. (Meaning inside the new retail box.) I had to download their manual online right here > http://www.koolance.com/support/manuals.html It never says a damn thing on how tight it should be. And your 100% correct that Koolance should have provided me with a torque wrench which could make a pop-sound once the heatsink was on tight right at spec. You've made an excellent point today thank you!

ArrowMk84
03-12-07, 02:00 PM
Koolance never provided any information on how tight the heatsink should be over the cpu. Infact, they didn't even provide me a manual with the new purchase of the Koolance CPU-330 Water block. (Meaning inside the new retail box.) I had to download their manual online right here > http://www.koolance.com/support/manuals.html It never says a damn thing on how tight it should be. And your 100% correct that Koolance should have provided me with a torque wrench which could make a pop-sound once the heatsink was on tight right at spec. You've made an excellent point today thank you!

WTF? Even a el-cheapo heatsinks come with manuals! I'd sure as expect water blocks to have them, especially since you can easily kill thousands of dollars worth of components if you screw up the install.

Since it doesn't tell you how tight it should be, all I can tell you is be careful and use your best judgment. Once you feel you've got good contact between the CPU and the block, and everything is good and secure, you're done. What thermal grease are you using, btw?

Digital_Trans
03-12-07, 02:21 PM
WTF? Even a el-cheapo heatsinks come with manuals! I'd sure as expect water blocks to have them, especially since you can easily kill thousands of dollars worth of components if you screw up the install.

Since it doesn't tell you how tight it should be, all I can tell you is be careful and use your best judgment. Once you feel you've got good contact between the CPU and the block, and everything is good and secure, you're done. What thermal grease are you using, btw?

Right no Koolance manual. They instruct the end-user to go on their websit and download it in PDF format or just print it out from within PDF format.
I'm going to use Artic Silver's Céramique thermal paste. Here's the products features > http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm

ArrowMk84
03-12-07, 03:27 PM
Excellent choice.

A note about your RAM. In my experience with Dominators, you'll have no problems with them at stock FSB speeds. But as soon as you start OC your FSB, you may have to take out two of the sticks due to instability, regardless of memory speed, timings, northbridge voltage or memory voltage. As I understand it, its a problem with how the BIOS calculates some of the voltages in between (people have gotten four sticks to work with an overclocked FSB by adjusting DDR controller voltages (which is three different settings), but at that point I was too frustrated to carry on). The next BIOS should have a fix.

Note that this isn't a problem with the memory or the motherboard's hardware.

Edit: Also, its best to install Vista with only 2GB of RAM in the system, and then apply the 4GB hotfix. The link for it is in the Vista section of the these forums, and the MS download page explains the issue.

Digital_Trans
03-12-07, 03:59 PM
Excellent choice.

A note about your RAM. In my experience with Dominators, you'll have no problems with them at stock FSB speeds. But as soon as you start OC your FSB, you may have to take out two of the sticks due to instability, regardless of memory speed, timings, northbridge voltage or memory voltage. As I understand it, its a problem with how the BIOS calculates some of the voltages in between (people have gotten four sticks to work with an overclocked FSB by adjusting DDR controller voltages (which is three different settings), but at that point I was too frustrated to carry on). The next BIOS should have a fix.

Note that this isn't a problem with the memory or the motherboard's hardware.

Edit: Also, its best to install Vista with only 2GB of RAM in the system, and then apply the 4GB hotfix. The link for it is in the Vista section of the these forums, and the MS download page explains the issue.


Do you have the Microsoft Hot Fix direct url link for the 4GB Memory issue please?

ArrowMk84
03-12-07, 04:06 PM
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777/en-us

Digital_Trans
03-12-07, 05:15 PM
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/929777/en-us

Thanks you rock! (nana2)