Found the problem -- instead of editing /etc/X11/XF86Config as shown in the docs, you need to set:
Section "Device"
Identifier "Card0"
Driver "nvidia"
BusID "PCI:0:11:0" <-- my box, YMMV see /var/run/dmesg.boot
EndSection
Section "Screen"
Identifier "Screen0"
Device "Card0"
. . . .
GLX now works like a charm.
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